Fashion consciousness: important role to plus-size women well-being

Ana Julia Büttner; Suzane Strehlau

doi:10.5585/remark.v21i3.19611

Autores

Ana Julia Büttner Escola Superior de Propaganda e Marketing – ESPM. https://orcid.org/0000-0002-0088-1536
Suzane Strehlau Escola Superior de Propaganda e Marketing – ESPM https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8590-1865

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.5585/remark.v21i3.19611

Palavras-chave:

Plus size, Consumo de moda, Consciência de moda, Bem-estar, Método qualitativo

Resumo

Objetivo: identificar como mulheres plus size podem encontrar bem-estar por intermédio da consciência de moda.

Metodologia: realizamos dezesseis entrevistas semiestruturadas, com foto-elicitação para análise de conteúdo. As entrevistadas eram mulheres obesas ou com sobrepeso, conforme critérios do Índice de Massa Corporal, e foram selecionadas por amostragem bola de neve.

Relevância: a consciência de moda, por desempenhar um papel vital no consumo de moda, pode ajudar as mulheres plus size a encontrarem bem-estar. Também pode promover a inclusão social e o bem-estar positivo para essas mulheres, mesmo dentro de um contexto de violência simbólica.

Resultados: há dois grupos que seguem a lógica do comércio e a lógica das artes: Fatshionistas e mulheres com diploma em Moda. O varejo virtual, juntamente com a consciência de moda, proporciona bem-estar positivo. Lojas especializadas para mulheres plus size não correspondem ao seu desejo de autoexpressão, e essa segregação causa bem-estar negativo. Apesar do movimento Body Positive, entrevistadas ainda associaram beleza a corpo magro.

Contribuição teórica: agregamos diploma em Moda e consciência de moda aos três gatilhos apresentados por Scaraboto & Fischer (2013). Embora mulheres plus size sejam invisíveis para muitas marcas de moda, consciência de moda aumenta sua autonomia que promove bem-estar positivo e negativo, por meio do consumo de moda.

Contribuição gerencial: o desenvolvimento do produto deve considerar a antropometria das mulheres plus size. A estratégia de varejo deve introduzir o plus size nas lojas físicas dentro do mercado tradicional, para diminuir a ilegitimidade desses consumidores e a violência simbólica.

Downloads

Não há dados estatísticos.

Biografia do Autor

Ana Julia Büttner, Escola Superior de Propaganda e Marketing – ESPM.

Mestre em Administração

Suzane Strehlau, Escola Superior de Propaganda e Marketing – ESPM

Doutora em Administração

Referências

Afful, A. A., & Ricciardelli, R. (2015). Shaping the online fat acceptance movement: Talking about body image and beauty standards. Journal of Gender Studies, 24 (4), 453–472.

Aires, A. (2019). De gorda a plus size: A moda do tamanho Grande. [From fat to plus size: large-size fashion]. Barueri: Estação das Letras e Cores Editora. (In Portuguese).

Banks, M. (2007). Visual data for qualitative research. Bookman Editora. (in Portuguese).

Bardin, L. (2016). Content analysis, San Paulo: Edições 70. (In Portuguese).

Bauck, W. (2018). The ethical fashion movement can't progress if it ignores plus-size shoppers: The average woman wears larger than a size 14. So why aren't sustainable brands pushing to offer her more ethical shopping options? [Cited 2018 June 2]. Available from: https://fashionista.com/2018/04/sustainable-ethical-plus-size-clothing-fashion

Belk, R. W. (1988). Possessions and the extended self. Journal of Consumer Research, 15 (2), 139–168. https://doi.org/10.1086/209154

Betti, M. U. (2014). Beleza sem medidas? Corpo, gênero e consumo no mercado de moda plus-size (Doctoral dissertation, Universidade de São Paulo).

Bickle, M. C., Burnsed, K. A., & Lear Edwards, K. (2015). Are US plus-size women satisfied with retail clothing store environments? Journal of Consumer Satisfaction, Dissatisfaction and Complaining Behaviour, 28, 45–60.

Bourdieu, P. (1989). O poder simbólico. Rio de Janeiro: Editora Bertrant Brasil.

Bourdieu, P. (1990). The logic of practice. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.

Bourdieu, P. & Wacquant, J. D. (1992). Réponses: Pour une anthropologie réflexive. Paris: Éditions de Seuil. (In French).

Brazil. (2016). RESOLUÇÃO Nº 510, DE 07 DE ABRIL DE 2016. In Diário Oficial da República Federativa do Brasil. https://www.in.gov.br/materia/-/asset_publisher/Kujrw0TZC2Mb/content/id/22917581

Bryman, A., & Bell, E. (2007). Business research methods. Oxford: Oxford University

Byrne, E. (2014). Visual data in qualitative research: The contribution of photography to understanding the mental health hospital environment (Doctoral dissertation, University of the West of England).

Christel, D. A., & O'Donnell, N. H. (2016). Assessment of women's plus-size swimwear for industry applications. Fashion Practice, 8 (2), 257–278. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2016.1215113

Clark-Ibáñez, M. (2004). Framing the social world with photo-elicitation interviews. American Behavioral Scientist, 47(12), 1507–1527.

Clifford, S. (2010). “Plus-Size Revelation: Big Women Have Cash Too,” New York Times, June 18, http://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/19/business/19plus.html.

Cohen, R., Irwin, L., Newton-John, T., & Slater, A. (2019). #bodypositivity: A content analysis of Body Positive accounts on Instagram. Body Image, 29, 47–57. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bodyim.2019.02.007

Coy, M., Wakeling, J., & Garner, M. (2011). Selling sex sells Representations of prostitution and the sex industry in sexualised popular culture as symbolic violence. Women's Studies International Forum, 34 (5), 441–448. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wsif.2011.05.008

Crane, D. (2012). Fashion and its social agendas: Class, gender, and identity in clothing. University of Chicago Press.

Cwynar-Horta, J. (2016). The commodification of the Body Positive movement on Instagram. Stream: Inspiring Critical Thought, 8, 36–56.

Delgado, D. (2010). Configurações sobre a educação no setor de Moda. IARA, 3(3), 147-169.

Diener, E. (1984). Subjective well-being. Psychological Bulletin, 95 (3), 542–575.

Diener, E., Suh, E. M., Lucas, R. E., & Smith, H. L. (1999). Subjective well-being: Three decades of progress. Psychological bulletin, 125 (2), 276.

Dion, D., & Tachet, B. (2019), Dynamics between market categories: A study of the (in) visibility of the plus-size fashion market. Recherche et Applications en Marketing (English Edition), 35 (1), 62–83. https://doi.org/10.1177/2051570719863648

Farias, M. L., Sousa Júnior, J. H., Silva, B. G. F., & Alcoforado, D. G. (2019). Compreendendo o Domínio “Projetos de Identidade do Consumidor”: Revisão de literatura considerando a produção científica brasileira. Consumer Behavior Review, 3 (2), 85–98.

Fredrickson, B. L., & Joiner, T. (2002). Positive emotions trigger upward spirals toward emotional well-being. Psychological Science, 13 (2), 172–175. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1111/1467-9280.00431

Gabriel, Y., & Lang, T. (2015). The Unmanageable Consumer. London, UK: Sage Publications Ltd.

Gailey, J. A. (2021). The Violence of Fat Hatred in the "Obesity Epidemic" Discourse. Humanity & Society. https://doi.org/10.1177/0160597621995501

Hineraski, D. A. (2014). O Instagram como plataforma de negócio de moda: dos “it-bloggers” às “it-marcas”. In Congresso Internacional em Comunicação e Consumo, 4.

Hennink, M., & Kaiser, B. (2019). Saturation in Qualitative Research. In P. Atkinson, S. Delamont, A. Cernat, J.W. Sakshaug, & R.A. Williams (Eds.), SAGE Research Methods Foundations. https://dx.doi.org/10.4135/9781526421036822322

Iida, I. (2005). Ergonomia: projeto e produção. São Paulo: Edgard Blucher.

Iran, S., Geiger, S. M., & Schrader, U. (2019). Collaborative fashion consumption–A cross-cultural study between Tehran and Berlin. Journal of Cleaner Production, 212, 313–323. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.11.163

Jantzen, C., Østergaard, P. & Vieira, C. M. S. (2006). Becoming a 'woman to the backbone' Lingerie consumption and the experience of feminine identity. Journal of Consumer Culture, 6 (2), 177–202.

Kessous, A., & Valette-Florence, P. (2019). "From Prada to Nada": Consumers and their luxury products: A contrast between second-hand and first-hand luxury products. Journal of Business Research, 102, 313–327. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2019.02.033

Lee, R. G., Ozanne, J. L., & Hill, R. P. (1999). Improving Service Encounters through Resource Sensitivity: The Case of Health Care Delivery in an Appalachian Community. Journal of Public Policy & Marketing, 18(2), 230–248. https://doi.org/10.1177/074391569901800209

Lertwannawit, A., & Mandhachitara, R. (2012). Interpersonal effects on fashion consciousness and status consumption moderated by materialism in metropolitan men. Journal of Business Research, 65(10), 1408-1416.

Lin, Y.-T., & Xia, K.-N. (2012). Cognitive age and fashion consumption. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 36 (1), 97–105. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1470-6431.2010.00991.x

Macnamara, J. (2006). Media and Male Identity: The making and remaking of men. Nova York: Palgrave Macmilan.

Nam, J. et al. (2007). The fashion-conscious behaviours of mature female consumers. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 31 (1), 102–108. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1470-6431.2006.00497.x

O'Cass, A. (2004). Fashion clothing consumption: Antecedents and consequences of fashion clothing involvement. European Journal of Marketing, 38 (7), 869–882. https://doi.org/10.1108/03090560410539294

O'Cass, A., Lee, W. J., and Siahtiri, V. (2013). Can Islam and status consumption live together in the house of fashion clothing? Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 17 (4), 440–459. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-03-2013-0023

Pheasant, S., & Haslegrave, C. M. (2018). Bodyspace: Anthropometry, ergonomics and the design of work. Boca Raton, FL: CRC press.

Pounders, K., & Mabry, A. (2016). Perceptions of changing beauty norms: An exploratory study. Advances in Consumer Research, 44, 236–240.

Rathnayake, C. V. (2011).An empirical investigation of fashion consciousness of young fashion consumers in Sri Lanka, Young Consumers, 12 (2), 121–132. https://doi.org/10.1108/17473611111141588

Renfrew, E., & Renfrew, C. (2010). Desenvolvendo uma coleção. In: Coleção Fundamentos de Design de Moda. Porto Alegre: Bookman.

Rose, G. (2016). Visual methodologies: An introduction to researching with visual materials. Sage.

Schroeder, J. E. (2006). Introduction to the special issue on aesthetics, images and vision. Marketing Theory, 6(1), 5-10.

Shim S, Gehrt KC. (1996). Hispanic and native American adolescents: An exploratory study of their approach to shopping. Journal of Retailing, 72 (3), 307–24

Souza, R. B. (2014). Formas de pensar a sociedade: o conceito de habitus, campos e violência simbólica em Bourdieu. Ars Historica, 7, 139-151.

Scaraboto, D., & Fischer, E. (2013), Frustrated fatshionistas: An institutional theory perspective on consumer quests for greater choice in mainstream markets. Journal of Consumer Research, 39 (6), 1234–1257. https://doi.org/10.1086/668298

Sresnewsky, K. B. G. B., Veloso, A. R., Ikeda, A. A., & Rocha, R. R. (2018). O Uso da Foto-Elicitação nas Pesquisas em Marketing. Brazilian Journal of Marketing, 17(6), 839-848. https://doi.org/10.5585/bmj.v17i6.3748

Thompson, C. J., & Haytko, D. L. (1997). Speaking of fashion: Consumers' uses of fashion discourses and the appropriation of countervailing cultural meanings. Journal of Consumer Research, 24 (1), 15–42. https://doi.org/10.1086/209491

Walsh G., Mitchell V.W., & Hennig-Thurau T. (2001). German consumer decision-making styles. Journal of Consumer Affairs, 35 (1), 73–95.

Wells W.D., & Tigert D.J. (1971). Activities, interests and opinions. Journal of Advertising Research, 11 (4), 27–35

Wood-Barcalow, N. L., Tylka, T. L., & Augustus-Horvath, C. L. (2010). "But I like my body": Positive body image characteristics and a holistic model for young-adult women, Body Image, 7 (2), 106–116. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bodyim.2010.01.001

Zaltman, G. (1997). Rethinking market research: Putting people back in. Journal of Marketing Research, 34 (4), 424–437. https://doi.org/10.1177/002224379703400402

Zanette, M. C., Lourenço, C. E., & Brito, E. P. Z. (2013). O peso do varejo, o peso no varejo e a identidade: uma análise de consumidoras plus size. Revista de Administração de Empresas, 53 (6), 539–550.https://doi.org/10.1590/S0034-75902013005000001