Verde por fora, cinza por dentro? explorando a transparência na comunicação de pequenas marcas de moda sustentável no Instagram

Autores/as

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.5585/2025.26565

Palabras clave:

Mídias sociais, Moda, Pequenos negócios, Sustentabilidade, Transparência da Marca

Resumen

Objetivo: Classificar e apreciar criticamente a forma como pequenas marcas de moda sustentável articulam a transparência na comunicação de suas práticas sustentáveis nas mídias sociais. Método: Abordagem qualitativa e documental, através de análise de conteúdo em 632 fotos, 163 vídeos e 170 legendas das seções de Feed e Destaques dos Stories de 17 marcas brasileiras com até 50 mil seguidores no Instagram.

Originalidade/Relevância: Enquanto a transparência na comunicação on-line de grandes marcas de moda sustentável foi amplamente estudada, há uma escassez de análises sobre pequenas marcas. Esta pesquisa preenche essa lacuna, ressaltando a importância de entender como essas marcas divulgam iniciativas sustentáveis nas mídias sociais.

Resultados: Embora estratégias visuais de marketing prevaleçam no Feed, uma abordagem mais transparente e autêntica é adotada nos Stories em relação a processos internos, produção artesanal, trabalho feminino, projetos socioambientais e matérias-primas. No entanto, há deficiências na divulgação de números de impacto socioambiental, no reconhecimento de desafios e áreas de melhoria, e na comunicação da remuneração justa dos trabalhadores.

Contribuições teóricas/metodológicas: Este estudo aprofunda a compreensão sobre como as pequenas marcas de moda abordam a comunicação de suas práticas sustentáveis no ambiente digital, identificando aspectos negligenciados nessa comunicação.

Contribuições sociais/para a gestão: Os achados oferecem insights práticos para aprimorar as estratégias de comunicação on-line de marcas emergentes de moda sustentável, visando uma comunicação mais transparente e autêntica com seus públicos, a fim de evitar a disseminação de falsos discursos mercadológicos

CROSSMARK_Color_horizontal.svg

Descargas

Biografía del autor/a

Francisco Mateus da Silva Cruz, Universidade Estadual do Ceará, UECE

Mestrando em Administração 

Ana Augusta Ferreira de Freitas, Universidade Estadual do Ceará - UECE

Pós-Doutorado em Administração 

Felipe Roberto da Silva, Universidade Estadual do Ceará - UECE

Doutor em Administração 

Citas

Abreu, D. C. N., & Lacerda, J. S. (2022). A ciberpublicidade presente na promoção da transparência na indústria da moda: uma análise da campanha #quemfezminhasroupas no Instagram. Anuario electrónico de estudios en Comunicación Social Disertaciones, 15(2). https://doi.org/10.12804/revistas.urosario.edu.co/disertaciones/a.10573

Alizadeh, L., Liscio, M. C., & Sospiro, P. (2024). The phenomenon of greenwashing in the fashion industry: A conceptual framework. Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy, 37(101416), 101416. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scp.2023.101416

Andreoli, T. P., & Nogueira, A. C. (2021). Falsos discursos mercadológicos: Greenwashing x Bluewashing. Revista Pensamento Contemporâneo em Administração, 15(2), 69–87. https://doi.org/10.12712/rpca.v15i2.48890

Andreoli, T. P., Costa, E. D. S., & Prearo, L. C. (2022). Consumer judgment on the practice of greenwashing: scale development and validation. Brazilian Business Review, 19, 508–524. https://doi.org/10.15728/bbr.2022.19.5.3.en

Andreoli, T. P., Minciotti, S. A., & Batista, L. L. (2024). Attention and skepticism: Influence on ad evaluation with greenwashing. Brazilian Business Review. https://doi.org/10.15728/bbr.2023.1539.en

Bainotti, L., Caliandro, A., & Gandini, A. (2020). From archive cultures to ephemeral content, and back: Studying Instagram Stories with digital methods. New Media & Society, 146144482096007. https://doi.org/10.1177/1461444820960071

Bardin, L. (2016). Análise de Conteúdo. São Paulo: Edições 70.

Berliner, D., & Prakash, A. (2015). “Bluewashing” the firm? Voluntary regulations, program design, and member compliance with the United Nations Global Compact. Policy Studies Journal: The Journal of the Policy Studies Organization, 43(1), 115–138. https://doi.org/10.1111/psj.12085

Brydges, T., Henninger, C. E., & Hanlon, M. (2022). Selling sustainability: investigating how Swedish fashion brands communicate sustainability to consumers. Sustainability: Science Practice and Policy, 18(1), 357–370. https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2022.2068225

Busby, A. (2020). With allegations of slavery and unsafe working conditions, is boohoo the unacceptable face of fast fashion? Forbes. Disponível em: https://www.forbes.com/sites/andrewbusby/2020/07/05/with-allegations-of-slavery-and-unsafe-working-conditions-is-boohoo-the-unacceptable-face-of-fast-fashion/?sh=49d5200616e9. Acesso em: 05 maio 2023.

Castillo-Abdul, B., Ortega Fernandez, E., & Romero-Rodriguez, L. M. (2024). Corporate social responsibility communication of male luxury fashion brands: analysis on Instagram, Facebook and TikTok. Management Decision, 62(2), 471–491. https://doi.org/10.1108/md-09-2022-1316

Chen, Y., Sherren, K., Smit, M., & Lee, K. Y. (2023). Using social media images as data in social science research. New Media & Society, 25(4), 849–871. https://doi.org/10.1177/14614448211038761

Correa, C. M., Machado, J. G. de C. F., & Braga Junior, S. S. (2018). A Relação do Greenwashing com a Reputação da Marca e a Desconfiança do Consumidor. Revista Brasileira de Marketing, 17(4), 590–602. https://doi.org/10.5585/remark.v17i4.4162

Costantini, J., & Costantini, K. (2022). Communications on sustainability in the apparel industry: Readability of information on sustainability on apparel brands’ web sites in the United Kingdom. Sustainability, 14(20), 13257. https://doi.org/10.3390/su142013257

Evans, S., & Peirson-Smith, A. (2018). The sustainability word challenge: Exploring consumer interpretations of frequently used words to promote sustainable fashion brand behaviors and imagery. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 22(2), 252–269. https://doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-10-2017-0103

Fashion Revolution (2020). Consumer Survey Report. Disponível em: https://issuu.com/fashionrevolution/docs/fashrev_consumersurvey_2020_full. Acesso em: 01 jun. 2023.

Fletcher, K. (2010). Slow fashion: An invitation for systems change. Fashion Practice, 2(2), 259–265. https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810x12774625387594

Floriano, M., & Matos, C. (2022). Entendendo as intenções dos brasileiros de consumir moda sustentável. Brazilian Business Review, 19(5), 525–545. https://doi.org/10.15728/bbr.2022.19.5.4.pt

Freitas Netto, S. V., Sobral, M. F. F., Ribeiro, A. R. B., & Soares, G. R. da L. (2020). Concepts and forms of greenwashing: a systematic review. Environmental Sciences Europe, 32(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s12302-020-0300-3

Henriques, A (2007). Corporate truth: The limits to transparency. London: Earthscan Publications.

Jestratijevic, I., Uanhoro, J. O., & Creighton, R. (2022). To disclose or not to disclose? Fashion brands’ strategies for transparency in sustainability reporting. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 26(1), 36–50. https://doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-09-2020-0182

Jestratijevic, I., Uanhoro, J. O., & Rana, M. R. I. (2024). Transparency of sustainability disclosures among luxury and mass-market fashion brands: Longitudinal approach. Journal of Cleaner Production, 436(140481), 140481. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2023.140481

Kaner, G., & Baruh, L. (2022). How to speak ‘sustainable fashion’: four consumer personas and five criteria for sustainable fashion communication. International Journal of Fashion Design Technology and Education, 15(3), 385–393. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2022.2078891

Kong, H. M., Witmaier, A., & Ko, E. (2021). Sustainability and social media communication: How consumers respond to marketing efforts of luxury and non-luxury fashion brands. Journal of Business Research, 131, 640–651. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2020.08.021

Kusá, A., & Urmínová, M. (2020). Communication as a part of identity of sustainable subjects in fashion. Journal of Risk and Financial Management, 13(12), 305. https://doi.org/10.3390/jrfm13120305

Lee, A., & Chung, T.-L. D. (2023). Transparency in corporate social responsibility communication on social media. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management. https://doi.org/10.1108/ijrdm-01-2022-0038

Lee, E., & Weder, F. (2021). Framing sustainable fashion concepts on social media. An analysis of #slowfashionaustralia Instagram posts and post-COVID visions of the future. Sustainability, 13(17), 9976. https://doi.org/10.3390/su13179976

Leonidou, C. N., & Skarmeas, D. (2017). Gray shades of green: Causes and consequences of green skepticism. Journal of Business Ethics, 144(2), 401–415. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-015-2829-4

Limongi, R., Pimenta, D. P., Silva, A. L. B. da, Porto, R. B., & Gomes, A. C. (2024). Concreto x abstrato: o impacto da tipologia de conteúdo visual no desempenho comercial. Revista Brasileira De Marketing, 23(2), 452–515. https://doi.org/10.5585/remark.v23i2.22190

Lyon, T. P., & Montgomery, A. W. (2013). Tweetjacked: The impact of social media on corporate greenwash. Journal of Business Ethics, 118(4), 747–757. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-013-1958-x

Marcella-Hood, M. (2023). Augmenting sustainable fashion on Instagram. Sustainability, 15(4), 3609. https://doi.org/10.3390/su15043609

McKinsey & Company, & Global Fashion Agenda (2020). Fashion on climate — how the fashion industry can urgently act to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions. Disponível em:https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/fashion%20on%20climate/fashion-on-climate-full-report.pdf. Acesso em: 30 abr. 2023.

Milanesi, M., Kyrdoda, Y., & Runfola, A. (2022). How do you depict sustainability? An analysis of images posted on Instagram by sustainable fashion companies. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 13(2), 101–115. https://doi.org/10.1080/20932685.2021.1998789

Mukendi, A., Davies, I., Glozer, S., & McDonagh, P. (2020). Sustainable fashion: current and future research directions. European Journal of Marketing, 54(11), 2873–2909. https://doi.org/10.1108/ejm-02-2019-0132

Park, H., Kwon, T. A., Zaman, M. M., & Song, S. Y. (2020). Thrift shopping for clothes: To treat self or others? Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 11(1), 56–70. https://doi.org/10.1080/20932685.2019.1684831

Parris, D. L., Dapko, J. L., Arnold, R. W., & Arnold, D. (2016). Exploring transparency: a new framework for responsible business management. Management Decision, 54(1), 222–247. https://doi.org/10.1108/md-07-2015-0279

Pope, S., & Wæraas, A. (2016). CSR-washing is rare: A conceptual framework, literature review, and critique. Journal of Business Ethics, 137(1), 173–193. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-015-2546-z

Rawlins, B. (2008). Give the emperor a mirror: Toward developing a stakeholder measurement of organizational transparency. Journal of Public Relations Research, 21(1), 71–99. https://doi.org/10.1080/10627260802153421

Reck, R., Castagna, A. C., Shuqair, S., & Pinto, D. C. (2022). The transparency paradox: When transparency cues helps or backfires for brands? Journal of Cleaner Production, 372(133381), 133381. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2022.133381

Reilly, A. H., & Hynan, K. A. (2014). Corporate communication, sustainability, and social media: It’s not easy (really) being green. Business Horizons, 57(6), 747–758. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bushor.2014.07.008

Ritch, E. L. (2022). Consumer interpretations of fashion sustainability terminology communicated through labelling. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 26(5), 741–758. https://doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-03-2021-0075

Rodrigues, L. B., Da Silva, F. E. R., & Romero, C. B. A. (2021). “Sou Verde de Verdade”: Estratégias Mercadológicas da Economia Criativa Para Superar a Desconfiança do Consumidor. Revista de Gestão Social e Ambiental, 15, e02780. https://doi.org/10.24857/rgsa.v15.2780

Sailer, A., Wilfing, H., & Straus, E. (2022). Greenwashing and bluewashing in Black Friday-related sustainable fashion marketing on Instagram. Sustainability, 14(3), 1494. https://doi.org/10.3390/su14031494

Sansome, K., Wilkie, D., & Conduit, J. (2024). Beyond information availability: Specifying the dimensions of consumer perceived brand transparency. Journal of Business Research, 170(114358), 114358. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2023.114358

SanMiguel, P., Pérez-Bou, S., Sádaba, T., & Mir-Bernal, P. (2021). How to communicate sustainability: From the corporate web to E-commerce. The case of the fashion industry. Sustainability, 13(20), 11363. https://doi.org/10.3390/su132011363

Skinner, E. A., Le Busque, B., Dorrian, J., & Litchfield, C. A. (2023). #sustainablefashion on Instagram: A content and network analysis of user‐generated posts. Journal of Consumer Behaviour. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.2182

Stallard, E. (2022). Fast fashion: How clothes are linked to climate change. BBC. Disponível em: https://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-60382624. Acesso em: 05 maio 2023.

TerraChoice (2010). The sins of greenwashing: home and family edition. Disponível em:https://www.twosides.info/wpcontent/uploads/2018/05/Terrachoice_The_Sins_of_Greenwashing__Home_and_Family_Edition_2010.pdf. Acesso em: 23 jul 2024.

Testa, D. S., Bakhshian, S., & Eike, R. (2021). Engaging consumers with sustainable fashion on Instagram. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 25(4), 569–584. https://doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-11-2019-0266

Vătămănescu, E.-M., Dabija, D.-C., Gazzola, P., Cegarro-Navarro, J. G., & Buzzi, T. (2021). Before and after the outbreak of Covid-19: Linking fashion companies’ corporate social responsibility approach to consumers’ demand for sustainable products. Journal of Cleaner Production, 321(128945), 128945. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2021.128945

Velasco-Molpeceres, A., Zarauza-Castro, J., Pérez-Curiel, C., & Mateos-González, S. (2022). Slow fashion as a communication strategy of fashion brands on Instagram. Sustainability, 15(1), 423. https://doi.org/10.3390/su15010423

Verbicaro, D., Silva, L. T. da P., & Simões, S. A. (2021). A Relevância da Atuação Estatal no Combate às Práticas Empresariais de Greenwashing e Bluewashing nas Relações de Consumo. Revista jurídica CESUMAR - Mestrado, 21(1), 61–80. https://doi.org/10.17765/2176-9184.2021v21n1p61-80

Vladimirova, K., Henninger, C. E., Alosaimi, S. I., Brydges, T., Choopani, H., Hanlon, M., Iran, S., McCormick, H., & Zhou, S. (2023). Exploring the influence of social media on sustainable fashion consumption: A systematic literature review and future research agenda. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 1–22. https://doi.org/10.1080/20932685.2023.2237978

Wallach, K. A., & Popovich, D. (2023). When Big Is Less than Small: Why dominant brands lack authenticity in their sustainability initiatives. Journal of Business Research, 158(113694), 113694. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2023.113694

Descargas

Publicado

2025-01-13

Cómo citar

Cruz, F. M. da S., Freitas, A. A. F. de, & Silva, F. R. da. (2025). Verde por fora, cinza por dentro? explorando a transparência na comunicação de pequenas marcas de moda sustentável no Instagram. ReMark - Revista Brasileira De Marketing, 24(1), 175–236. https://doi.org/10.5585/2025.26565
Crossref
0
Scopus
0
Visualizaciones
  • Resumen 819
  • PDF (English) 556